Interview with winemaker Thodoris Koutsoumbos

With Pitys, you’ve been among those redefining Retsina for a new generation. What were the key challenges in changing perceptions around a style so deeply rooted in the past?
The main challenges in reshaping perceptions around Retsina and in producing a premium version such as Pitys have always been the weight of its past reputation. For decades, poor-quality, mass-produced wines created the image of a cheap, careless product. Younger consumers, in particular, often dismissed it altogether. The category suffered from a lack of clear quality distinctions, something that exists in every other wine style. As a result, Retsina was frequently rejected as a whole. Handling the resin itself is another critical factor. The right quantity, the right quality, and the exact moment of addition during winemaking are all essential for achieving a delicate aroma that complements the fruit without overwhelming it. Grape variety also plays a vital role. Traditionally, Savatiano and Roditis were used. To elevate Retsina, experimentation was necessary, as we did with Assyrtiko in Mantinia, and as other winemakers have done with different varieties. Modern winemaking techniques, including low-temperature fermentation, better winery hygiene, and the use of high-quality resin, have also contributed significantly to Retsina’s evolution. However, the biggest challenge was convincing consumers to pay a higher price for a product traditionally seen as low-end. This required thoughtful rebranding, with refined labels and a fresh visual identity. Finally, international recognition helped establish Retsina as a wine of traditional designation, produced exclusively in Greece, with a one-of-a-kind style.
Retsina is evolving. How do you see its place in the future of Greek wine? Does it have the potential to be reintroduced globally with a new narrative?
Retsina has a history that spans thousands of years and is undeniably a Greek product. That is its greatest advantage, its singular identity.
It pairs beautifully with dishes that are typically difficult for white wines to match, such as fried foods, oily or richly spiced preparations, and grilled meats. This versatility allows it to stand out in the world of food and wine pairing. Modern Retsinas with a more controlled resin character can appeal to a new generation of wine lovers and professionals who are seeking authenticity and unique flavor experiences. The transition from bulk inexpensive wine to a premium bottled product reflects the evolution of Retsina and its current position in the market. The pricing of high-quality Retsina has already moved upward and it now appears alongside some of the finest Greek wines on the shelf.
As for the new narrative, Retsina has the potential to be reintroduced and redefined internationally through three key pillars:
– First, its history teaches us important lessons. The use of resin was an ancient and natural method of wine preservation.
– Second, it is a naturally made wine that aligns perfectly with the global shift toward authenticity and low intervention.
– Third, its gastronomic flexibility makes it an excellent companion to a wide range of cuisines including Asian, Eastern Mediterranean, and more.

How important is it for Greek wine to revisit traditional styles like Retsina through a lens of precision and innovation?
Revisiting traditional styles with a focus on precision and innovation is essential for the future and global recognition of Greek wine. With Retsina, Greek wine is embracing its heritage while also responding to the demands of the modern wine world. The uniqueness of Retsina sets it apart in international markets. It is not subject to direct comparison with classic white wines from international varieties. Instead, it creates its own category. Innovation comes through the use of premium-quality Aleppo pine resin and by applying controlled fermentation temperatures and carefully timed resin contact. These decisions ensure balance in both aroma and taste. In this way, the past becomes a guide for a better future and Retsina becomes a bridge between tradition and contemporary winemaking techniques.

How do you keep creativity alive vintage after vintage, especially in a wine like Retsina that is so often misunderstood?
Maintaining creativity in a wine like Retsina requires a careful balance between consistency and innovation. Consistency is what builds consumer trust. This is why experimentation is necessary. For example, we explore different sources and styles of resin from various parts of Greece. We also experiment with the vessels we use, such as stainless steel, oak, cement, and amphora. Retsina is not a fixed product. It varies according to the character of each vintage.
The biggest challenge is maintaining harmony between the presence of resin and the expression of the grape.