Interview with winemaker Thodoris Koutsoumbos

Route Gris is one of many faces of Moschofilero in your portfolio. What is it about this grape that allows for such expressive range and how do you decide which direction to take?
Moschofilero has an impressive expressive range thanks to its natural characteristics and its versatility in winemaking. It is one of the standout grapes of the Greek vineyard and has the ability to produce many different wine styles, from fresh and vibrant to complex and age-worthy. Route Gris is one such example. Skin contact, fermentation in various types of vessels, and aging in cement tanks all help enhance and showcase its rich and layered personality.

What does modern Mantinia look like to you? Is there still untapped potential in the region, especially for alternative expressions beyond the classic style?
Mantinia is going through a period of revival and evolution. A new generation of wineries, including ours, has brought new styles of Moschofilero to light and revealed sides of the grape that were previously unknown. The region’s high elevation and cool nights help preserve acidity and slow down ripening. Despite the progress of recent years, there is still much untapped potential for styles beyond the traditional expression. Mantinia could become a stronghold for Greek sparkling wine. Given the color of the grape’s skin, it also has the potential to lead the way in natural and orange wine styles. There is space for Mantinia to develop a new premium category. We already produce several wines in this direction such as Hoof and Lur, Holy Mania, Route Gris, and Ekato. The region could even play a new role in sweet wine production. Our Sweet Route is one example, created in recent years and showing great promise.

Troupis has brought Moschofilero into the spotlight through diverse interpretations. How does being part of GGW help amplify the evolution of this defined grape?
Our participation in GGW has been invaluable for both the growth of our winery and the development of Moschofilero itself. The platform sets a high standard for quality, visibility, and technical excellence. To be included in GGW, we are challenged to push the variety to its limits. Each year, our Moschofilero is evaluated blindly by top wine professionals, including Masters of Wine. The fact that we have consistently performed well offers us important feedback on how our wines stand in the global context and against international trends. This motivates us to keep refining both our winemaking and vineyard practices in order to continuously raise the quality of Moschofilero. GGW frequently rewards innovative styles, which encourages us to keep experimenting. The platform’s international outlook acts as a valuable export tool, allowing wines like Route Gris, Pitys, and Hoof and Lur to be presented at masterclasses and global events. This visibility ensures that our Moschofilero reaches decision-makers who can list it in wine programs and cellars worldwide. In this way, Moschofilero moves from being a humble local variety to a respected international premium product.

Your work with Moschofilero borders on a good kind of obsession. What is the biggest surprise the variety has given you over the years?
We are a young winery made up of passionate people who love to experiment, take calculated risks, and work hard to deliver quality. Working as a family, and with the right collaborators, we have developed Moschofilero in new ways.
The variety has incredible versatility. It can produce a wide spectrum of wine styles, provided it is handled with care in both vineyard and cellar. What it needs is passion, patience, and a spirit of experimentation.
We were the first winery in Mantinia to create a rosé-style Moschofilero. From our earliest vintages, we realized that the grape’s true personality is in its skin. That is why we allowed skin contact and color to shine. The result was more vibrant, fruity, floral wines that were clear, expressive, and with long finishes. This began in 2014.
Today, after years of experimentation, we produce a wide range of Moschofilero expressions. From the classic fresh Tomi Mantinia PDO to the deeply colored Ekato Moschofilero with 100 days of skin contact.
Each wine follows a different winemaking path, including spontaneous fermentations, native yeast strains from our own vineyards, fermentations in cement tanks, and aging in acacia and oak barrels. At the same time, we are planting new clones and rootstocks in Mantinia, beyond the traditional ones.
All this experimentation has brought new life to our winery. We are proud when people say that Troupis helped bring Moschofilero back to the spotlight.