Interview with winemaker Vangelis Gavalas
Natural Ferment Assyrtiko is vinified using indigenous yeasts. What are the key differences with your classic Santorini label?
First of all, the Natural Ferment label differs in three main ways from our classic Santorini in terms of winemaking. These are the use of wild (indigenous) yeasts, extended contact with the lees, and a small percentage of the final blend that matures in old barrels. Our philosophy regarding the final result is the following: In Santorini, we aim to highlight acidity, freshness, and the saline character. In Natural Ferment, we seek a wine that is richer, rounder, more complex, and creamy overall.
Santorini’s global profile brings both prestige and responsibility. How do you approach the long-term sustainability of the island’s vineyards in such a high-pressure, high-demand environment?
Our approach to the long-term sustainability of Santorini’s vineyards is based on two main pillars:
1. Protection of the unique terroir
Santorini’s volcanic soil is priceless and irreplaceable. We prioritize gentle cultivation, avoiding excessive use of machinery or chemicals, in order to preserve the soil’s natural balance.
2. Replanting and new vineyards. In recent years, we have faced increasingly dry conditions. Combined with the fact that many of the island’s vineyards are very old, this has led to a dramatic decrease in production. For these reasons, we have begun a process of new plantings and replanting old, unproductive vineyards (uprooting and replanting from scratch).
Beyond Assyrtiko, your winery continues to work with other native varieties of Santorini. What role do these grapes play historically, and how important is their preservation for the island’s viticultural identity?
As our winery has a five-generation history, we have always tried to vinify each variety separately. Apart from Assyrtiko, we also produce wines from Aidani, Mavrotragano, Mandilaria, Katsano, and Voudomato. Although these varieties are not part of our export range, it is very important to preserve them, even in small quantities, because they are part of the tradition and cultural heritage of our vineyards. We have also seen great interest from visitors to our winery, who appreciate the opportunity to taste varieties other than Assyrtiko. Wines that are very hard to find outside the island.
Natural Ferment has earned a place on a highly selective, quality-driven list. What does this recognition represent for you, and how do you feel it reflects the way Santorini wines are perceived today?
This is a significant recognition for us. It confirms that passion for authenticity and respect for the terroir can coexist with high quality. Natural Ferment expresses the soul of Santorini’s land in its purest form, through indigenous yeasts and a true expression of Assyrtiko’s character. This distinction also reflects the broader international perception of Santorini wines. The island is rightfully earning its place among the world’s leading wine regions, and recognitions like this affirm it.
Gavalas is one of the oldest wineries on the island. How do you stay rooted in your heritage while continuing to evolve in today’s wine landscape?
Our family has deep roots in Santorini’s winemaking landscape, with a history spanning more than five centuries. Remaining faithful to tradition means respecting our native varieties, our traditional cultivation methods like the kouloura (basket-shaped vine training), and the authentic expression of our terroir. We continue to operate as a family, keeping the winery’s identity alive. At the same time, we are constantly evolving, exploring new projects such as single-vineyard vinifications, rare varieties, and wild fermentations. For us, evolution is not a departure from the past, but rather its continuation.